Wild about cooking mushrooms in Barcelona

Mushroom season in Spain

Each autumn and winter these beautifully varied fungi are available in abundance in Barcelona. I see them in shops and at the fresh produce markets – Mercat de l’Abaceria Central, at Travessera de Gràcia 186, and La Boqueria Market downtown at La Rambla. Foraging for wild mushrooms is an age-old tradition in Catalonia. Once you taste them, you’ll […]

Devour Barcelona

Pickled peppers, Gracia, Barcelona

If you want to get to know the real Barcelona, then you must come to Gràcia and eat. I’m staying two minutes from this lovely square (pictured above) in the area, where sunlight is dappled on a cold morning. Terracotta, russet and greens dominate the late autumn palette. People linger at cafes over coffee and […]

My iPhone’s solo globe-trotting adventure

Mai tai

Departing Greece bound for Australia, I left my iPhone in a friend’s car when I was dropped off at the airport. I went into a clammy iPhoneless panic. As you do when you and your mobile are inseparable travelling companions (pictured above enjoying freddo cappuccino together on Mykonos) and suddenly realise you’ve lost each other. […]

The Art of Traditional Italian

The Art of Traditional Italian

The Art of Traditional Italian Rich with culinary wisdom Deliciously designed Packed with perfect recipes WHAT:  In The Art of Traditional Italian, Lucio Galletto celebrates La Cucina Italiana: the flavours, history and techniques of Italian cuisine, perfected over centuries. I like deconstructed updated cuisines as much as anybody, but when tradition is already perfect, why mess […]

To Kati Allo homestyle Greek fare

Horiatiki salata at To Kati Allo

In a narrow street directly behind the state-of-the-art Acropolis Museum, Leonidas and Ioanna have been serving traditional food to Athenians and visitors at To Kati Allo restaurant for over 30 years. Oven-baked peppers stuffed with rice, spit-roasted lamb, robust fish soups, hearty moussaka, salads, baked chicken with lemony potatoes. Comfort food that Greeks love and […]

I’m an Athenian

Athens towards Lycabettos

I’m an Athenian. I first came here in 1980. No other city has ever challenged me so much. It’s richly cultural yet abrasive and tumultuous. I’ve had my fair share of love-hate with the ancient Greek capital. My Athenian-born children spent most of their childhoods in Australia. But I keep coming back. So do they. Many visitors […]

Trash ‘n treasure at Athens Flea Market

Athens Flea Market

Welcome to the Athens Flea Market where ancient, Byzantine and modern glories are all packed into one gloriously overcrowded mishmash. The entrance is on Monastiraki Square, opposite the Tzistarakis Mosque, built in 1759, which now houses the Kyriazopoulos  pottery collection. You might want to start with a freddo cappuccino and get some fruit to snack […]

Amazing island of Andros

Gavrion on Andros

Andros is a Greek island that blossoms in winter, spring and autumn. In winter it’s green, in spring it’s smothered in wildflowers. In summer it tends to get bashed about a bit by the fickle Meltemi winds sweeping the Cyclades. When there’s no wind, it’s damn hot. Another sweltering rock in the Aegean. By summer’s […]

Best autumn beaches in Greece

Small cove at Varkiza copy

Greek summer is done but autumn’s divine. Come on in, the water’s fine! Many Greeks stop swimming in September. You’re more likely to see peeps in their 20s or 30s, or older and retired Greeks – the type who swim for their health until it’s really too cold (and occasionally old dudes with that creepy […]