Aegina day trip to another world

Aegina 2

I meet a fellow Athenian who’s lived in the Greek capital for over 35 years, and yet she’s never been to the island of Aegina. “I hear it’s nice,” she said. I gulp and blink. If you’re standing on the Acropolis looking out to sea, Aegina resembles a smoky blue, slumbering whale of mythical proportions. There’s […]

Athens street art will open your eyes

Athens street art

Athens street art has moved way beyond graffiti into powerful social expression. It’s provocative and evocative. There’s no denying the talent. Most artists started out as teenagers doing what teens do – tagging trains and walls. Now they’re even students at the Athens School of Fine Arts. Recently the City of Athens sponsored some of the better work […]

Coffee snobbery dissolved in an instant

coffee beans 2

“Damn, you people take coffee seriously,” said the visiting American staying in our apartment. We do. So so seriously. Especially in our state capital cities. We spend more time in cafes, buy more fancy home coffee machines than we used to and buy more coffee beans than we used to. We love it when visitors […]

Syros scrambled eggs and salad recipes

Syros scrambled eggs and salad recipes

Staying or living on a Greek island means al fresco dining, any time of day, in all seasons except when it’s really wintry. Here’s my Syros scrambled eggs and salad recipes made simply using fresh, local ingredients and whatever we could find in the fridge for brunch. We did pop out to get fresh bread […]

New Greek food at Athens’ oldest restaurant

Mille feuille

WHAT: Vassilenas claims to be Athens’ oldest restaurant opening its doors in 1920 and introducing a degustation menu as early as 1928. Serving traditional Greek food, seafood and no meat, it comprised only three tables in 1920, owned by Istanbul-born Thanasis Vassilenas. It quickly morphed into an established taverna. Among the rich and famous to […]

Hot chocolate in Athens at Le Petite Fleur

Le Petit Fleur

A day without chocolate is a day without sunshine Wintery weather in Athens demands hot chocolate on a Sunday. But not any old hot chocolate will do. We’re at the elegant Le Petite Fleur in the upper crust suburb of Kifissia. The tiny interior is pink, white and pastel girly chic, with splashes of pillar […]

My iPhone’s solo globe-trotting adventure

Mai tai

Departing Greece bound for Australia, I left my iPhone in a friend’s car when I was dropped off at the airport. I went into a clammy iPhoneless panic. As you do when you and your mobile are inseparable travelling companions (pictured above enjoying freddo cappuccino together on Mykonos) and suddenly realise you’ve lost each other. […]

To Kati Allo homestyle Greek fare

Horiatiki salata at To Kati Allo

In a narrow street directly behind the state-of-the-art Acropolis Museum, Leonidas and Ioanna have been serving traditional food to Athenians and visitors at To Kati Allo restaurant for over 30 years. Oven-baked peppers stuffed with rice, spit-roasted lamb, robust fish soups, hearty moussaka, salads, baked chicken with lemony potatoes. Comfort food that Greeks love and […]

I’m an Athenian

Athens towards Lycabettos

I’m an Athenian. I first came here in 1980. No other city has ever challenged me so much. It’s richly cultural yet abrasive and tumultuous. I’ve had my fair share of love-hate with the ancient Greek capital. My Athenian-born children spent most of their childhoods in Australia. But I keep coming back. So do they. Many visitors […]